Black Tie Terminology

So you have been invited to a formal event. If the invite reads “Black Tie Required” a tuxedo is a must. Not to fret, in today’s atmosphere of formal wear, you have plenty of options. You may opt for a timeless classic black tuxedo and basic white shirt with few frills. Or you may decide to spice it up with subtle details, stylish vest and tie combinations or bright colorful cummerbunds.  The flair factor should be determined by the formality of the event you will be attending.

Below are a few terms that will guide you in determining the appropriate attire.

Bowtie:  The staple of ties in formal wear. The bowtie needs a moderate amount of skill to tie. Most rental stores offer a dummy proof band bowtie which requires no tying and has an adjustable band for varying neck sizes.

Besom Pocket:  A coat with no flaps on the pockets. Typically found with a narrow strip of satin above the pocket opening.

Collar:  The material on a coat that flips back in the area of the neck, typically can be found in satin fabric.

Cuff Links:  A formal device which plays the role of the button on the cuffs of a shirt, offered in a variety of styles and finishes.

Cummerbund:  A wide pleated cloth worn around the waist, normally wraps over the top of the pants with the seams facing up.

Double Breasted:  A coat style which has overlapping cloth, secured by a button facing toward the inside of the coat. Either four or six buttons are found on the front.

Double Breasted Vest:  A vest with a similar style as the double-breasted coat, cloth will slightly overlap and button with either four or six buttons.

Flap Pocket:  On a formal tuxedo coat, a cloth piece covers the opening of the pocket.  This piece must be lifted to gain entry to the pockets.

Formal shoes:  Glossy formal footwear in leather or vinyl, can be worn as a slip-on or lace-up.

French Cuff:  A formal shirt where the cuffs fold back and are secured with cuff links.

Full Dress Tails:  The most formal of the tuxedo coats. Coat has a short length at the waist and tapers to a longer length in the rear.

Lapel:  The material on a coat that folds back just below the collar of the coat.

Laydown Collar:  A shirt with a traditional collar similar to a standard dress shirt, can have a smooth cloth front or offered with pleats on the front.

Notch Lapel:   A style detail found on a coat where a half-diamond void exist between the collar and the lapel.

Peak Lapel:  A detail on a coat where the lapel extends beyond the collar ending with a sharp point directed upward.

Pique Shirt:  A shirt with a basket weave design in the cloth. Normally a thicker material is found in the front portion and cuff area. This is the most formal of all the styles of shirts.

Pique Vest:  A vest constructed of material matching that of the Pique shirt. Most often paired with a white tie and white coat with tails.

Shawl Collar:  A tuxedo coat detail where there is no seam between the collar and the lapel. Extremely clean look, James Bond’s choice of style.

Studs:  A formal replacement for buttons on a shirt, commonly metal with black inserts.

Tuxedo:  Historically used as a term to describe a standard coat with satin lapels. Today tuxedo is a term used to describe a variety of styles and tastes of formal wear.

Vents:  A style of the lower section of a coat. Choices vary, vented or non-vented. If vented, you may have side vents or a center vent in the rear.

Wing Collar:  A shirt detail which describes a small piece of cloth that folds over at the front area of the collar. The folded over portion covers the band area of the bowtie as it connects with the bow.

Myles Castello